| Rabbit Care |
Excercise:
It is important that rabbits receive plenty of exercise. Rabbits that are not
allowed to get up and move around are not only unhappy, but can be
unhealthy as well. Rabbits that get enough exercise generally are more
successful at breeding. If a rabbit is too overweight or not in shape breeding
can be a chore. Rabbits also need exercise to keep a healthy digestive
system. Rabbits in the wild are free to roam and eat at will. Their digestive
systems are designed for this as well. A rabbit that is locked in too small of a
cage or that cannot exercise may develop wool block (an impaction in the
intestine.) At Serapic Farms we also give our rabbits toys to play with. These
are plastic cat toys that the rabbit can not chew. The rabbits love picking
them up and throwing them around their cage. This also helps to exercise
the rabbit. Rabbits enjoy homemade toys as well. We on occasion let our
rabbits outside in a pen or run around our enclosed barn for exercise.
It is important that rabbits receive plenty of exercise. Rabbits that are not
allowed to get up and move around are not only unhappy, but can be
unhealthy as well. Rabbits that get enough exercise generally are more
successful at breeding. If a rabbit is too overweight or not in shape breeding
can be a chore. Rabbits also need exercise to keep a healthy digestive
system. Rabbits in the wild are free to roam and eat at will. Their digestive
systems are designed for this as well. A rabbit that is locked in too small of a
cage or that cannot exercise may develop wool block (an impaction in the
intestine.) At Serapic Farms we also give our rabbits toys to play with. These
are plastic cat toys that the rabbit can not chew. The rabbits love picking
them up and throwing them around their cage. This also helps to exercise
the rabbit. Rabbits enjoy homemade toys as well. We on occasion let our
rabbits outside in a pen or run around our enclosed barn for exercise.
Feeding:
We feed Heinhold Show and Family Formulas. We also feed a grass hay mixture
everyday. A raisin a day will also help add flesh condition. Free feeding certain
breeds like wool breeds will also help keep flesh condition on your rabbits. We have
had many other breeders and judges comment on how good of flesh condition our
rabbit are in. We also give our rabbits fresh water twice daily. Occasionally we
give oatmeal, show stopper, or calf manna for weight gain.
We feed Heinhold Show and Family Formulas. We also feed a grass hay mixture
everyday. A raisin a day will also help add flesh condition. Free feeding certain
breeds like wool breeds will also help keep flesh condition on your rabbits. We have
had many other breeders and judges comment on how good of flesh condition our
rabbit are in. We also give our rabbits fresh water twice daily. Occasionally we
give oatmeal, show stopper, or calf manna for weight gain.
Questions about rabbit care?
Please Contact me at:
Showing Rabbits:
Showing rabbits can be a lot of fun! It is very stressful on the rabbits though.
Remember to arrive to the show early. Bring all of your grooming supplies and
make sure to bring food and water for your bunnies. Feeding rabbits hay during the
show also helps relieve stress. The rabbit classes are broken down into groups or
varieties for each specific breed. In polish rabbits they are broken in to varieties:
Black, Blue, Blue-Eyed White, Broken, Chocolate, and Ruby-Eyed White. They begin
in alphabetical order. First to show would be Black senior bucks (a senior is a
rabbit that is either over 2 1/2lbs., or 6 months of age in polish), then black senior
does, next black junior bucks, and last black junior does. After they pick the top 4
black's they judge those 4 rabbits against each other. They then pick the Best of
Variety or BOV and then the Best opposite of Group or BOSV. So if a doe wins BOG
they will then pick the best buck for BOSV or vise versa. Then they continue in ABC
order through each color group until they have the BOV and BOSV for each color
group. After that they narrow those 10 rabbits down to Best of Breed or BOB and
Best opposite Sex of Breed or BOSB. The rabbit that wins BOB will then compete in
Best 4 class. If they win this they then go on to compete for Best in Show or BIS.
Happy showing and good luck to all!
Showing rabbits can be a lot of fun! It is very stressful on the rabbits though.
Remember to arrive to the show early. Bring all of your grooming supplies and
make sure to bring food and water for your bunnies. Feeding rabbits hay during the
show also helps relieve stress. The rabbit classes are broken down into groups or
varieties for each specific breed. In polish rabbits they are broken in to varieties:
Black, Blue, Blue-Eyed White, Broken, Chocolate, and Ruby-Eyed White. They begin
in alphabetical order. First to show would be Black senior bucks (a senior is a
rabbit that is either over 2 1/2lbs., or 6 months of age in polish), then black senior
does, next black junior bucks, and last black junior does. After they pick the top 4
black's they judge those 4 rabbits against each other. They then pick the Best of
Variety or BOV and then the Best opposite of Group or BOSV. So if a doe wins BOG
they will then pick the best buck for BOSV or vise versa. Then they continue in ABC
order through each color group until they have the BOV and BOSV for each color
group. After that they narrow those 10 rabbits down to Best of Breed or BOB and
Best opposite Sex of Breed or BOSB. The rabbit that wins BOB will then compete in
Best 4 class. If they win this they then go on to compete for Best in Show or BIS.
Happy showing and good luck to all!
Broken wooly babies in a nest of hair and straw. The mother will pull hair and build a
nest for the babies before they are born. (Serapic's Geronimo, born October 20, 2004)
nest for the babies before they are born. (Serapic's Geronimo, born October 20, 2004)
Breeding:
We breed our rabbits year round at Serapic Farms. We generally breed at night
since this is when rabbits in nature breed and are most active. We also hand
breed our rabbits to make sure that breeding is successful and so that rabbits do
not get injured. We hand breed by putting the doe on our grooming table first. Then
we brush her hair on her hindquarters forward so that it doesn't get in the way. On
occasion we may even clip the hair around the vaginal opening and hindquarters.
Then we put the buck on the table and let him mount her on his own. Sometimes
with aggressive females we may hold them in place and set the buck into the a
mounting position. The bucks then will breed the doe and when they have
completed (usually only takes a few seconds) they will fall off of the doe and make
a grunting noise. They then will get up and usually thump their hind feet at the doe.
We then put them back into their seperate cages to relax. Once mating is
successful we rebreed the rabbits apporxiamatly 1 hour after the first mating.
Research has shown that this is the best way to insure that the does will take. On
occasion we will try to rebreed the next morning to make sure the does have
taken. Generally, does will not rebreed. We have had some that are willing to
rebreed. If this is the case, we breed them and then breed them again an hour
later. We have found that our success rate is higher by using this strategy. We
give the does their nest box on day 29 with hay or straw. We calculate the due date
to day 31 since most of my Jersey Woolies have them on day 31 or even day 32.
We suggest inducing does who go past 32 days. Babies are kept under heating
lamps when it is cold out. Our does that have babies are given hay twice a day and
are given larger bowls so that we an add more food and water. The babies are
handled everyday in order for them to be used to people. Babies are weaned at six
weeks of age. We keep the babies in the litter together until they are about 7-8
weeks old. Our does (if we want to rebreed them) are rebreed when the kits are
between 4 to 6 weeks of age. Does that loose their litters during birth can be
rebred 2 days after delivery of the kits and the placenta. We do give are does a
break from having litters after about every 2 litters.
We breed our rabbits year round at Serapic Farms. We generally breed at night
since this is when rabbits in nature breed and are most active. We also hand
breed our rabbits to make sure that breeding is successful and so that rabbits do
not get injured. We hand breed by putting the doe on our grooming table first. Then
we brush her hair on her hindquarters forward so that it doesn't get in the way. On
occasion we may even clip the hair around the vaginal opening and hindquarters.
Then we put the buck on the table and let him mount her on his own. Sometimes
with aggressive females we may hold them in place and set the buck into the a
mounting position. The bucks then will breed the doe and when they have
completed (usually only takes a few seconds) they will fall off of the doe and make
a grunting noise. They then will get up and usually thump their hind feet at the doe.
We then put them back into their seperate cages to relax. Once mating is
successful we rebreed the rabbits apporxiamatly 1 hour after the first mating.
Research has shown that this is the best way to insure that the does will take. On
occasion we will try to rebreed the next morning to make sure the does have
taken. Generally, does will not rebreed. We have had some that are willing to
rebreed. If this is the case, we breed them and then breed them again an hour
later. We have found that our success rate is higher by using this strategy. We
give the does their nest box on day 29 with hay or straw. We calculate the due date
to day 31 since most of my Jersey Woolies have them on day 31 or even day 32.
We suggest inducing does who go past 32 days. Babies are kept under heating
lamps when it is cold out. Our does that have babies are given hay twice a day and
are given larger bowls so that we an add more food and water. The babies are
handled everyday in order for them to be used to people. Babies are weaned at six
weeks of age. We keep the babies in the litter together until they are about 7-8
weeks old. Our does (if we want to rebreed them) are rebreed when the kits are
between 4 to 6 weeks of age. Does that loose their litters during birth can be
rebred 2 days after delivery of the kits and the placenta. We do give are does a
break from having litters after about every 2 litters.
House Rabbits and Litter Box Training:
House rabbits can be a lot of fun, but they are not for everyone. If you are interested in purchasing a rabbit as a pet then you
need a lot of information first! They are not a pet that you can lock up in a cage and leave alone. They are very much like a
dog or cat in that they require a lot of human companionship. I have a house rabbit as well as many show rabbits. All of
them are handled and talked to everyday. They all love attention! My house rabbit has been socialized and goes to school
with me every week and poses as my classroom pet. He is litter box trained and has been neutered. I would recommend to
anyone who wishes to have a rabbit as a pet to get them spayed or neutered. They are less aggressive and will not spray to
mark their territory. If they are not neutered they also may circle their owners repeatedly wishing to breed. Some rabbits will
even mount or hump their owners if they are not "fixed." Their requirements are of the same as listed above for my show
rabbits. The only difference is litter box training. This usually can not be done until the rabbit is around 3 months old, but
some can be done earlier. To litter box train my rabbit I waited until he was a little older. Then he started doing his business
on one side of his cage. So that is where I put his litter box. I then placed some of his feces in the box so he would get the
idea of what the box was for. I made sure to clean up any accidents right away so that he wouldn't get confused. He caught
on very quickly. Make sure that you use a small cage to teach your rabbit. By nature they are very clean animals and will go
in one area. If you give them to much room they may not understand where to go. The cage that I initially taught my rabbit in
was quite small, the litter box took up 1/2 of the cage. In the other 1/2 I put his toys and food. Now he has a large cage and he
never has an accident. I can even give him run of the house and he will return to his box (I put it on the floor) to go potty. If
you let your rabbit run around your house make sure that you watch him because they will chew wood, furniture, curtains,
cords, etc. If you have any other questions about house rabbits please e-mail me.
House rabbits can be a lot of fun, but they are not for everyone. If you are interested in purchasing a rabbit as a pet then you
need a lot of information first! They are not a pet that you can lock up in a cage and leave alone. They are very much like a
dog or cat in that they require a lot of human companionship. I have a house rabbit as well as many show rabbits. All of
them are handled and talked to everyday. They all love attention! My house rabbit has been socialized and goes to school
with me every week and poses as my classroom pet. He is litter box trained and has been neutered. I would recommend to
anyone who wishes to have a rabbit as a pet to get them spayed or neutered. They are less aggressive and will not spray to
mark their territory. If they are not neutered they also may circle their owners repeatedly wishing to breed. Some rabbits will
even mount or hump their owners if they are not "fixed." Their requirements are of the same as listed above for my show
rabbits. The only difference is litter box training. This usually can not be done until the rabbit is around 3 months old, but
some can be done earlier. To litter box train my rabbit I waited until he was a little older. Then he started doing his business
on one side of his cage. So that is where I put his litter box. I then placed some of his feces in the box so he would get the
idea of what the box was for. I made sure to clean up any accidents right away so that he wouldn't get confused. He caught
on very quickly. Make sure that you use a small cage to teach your rabbit. By nature they are very clean animals and will go
in one area. If you give them to much room they may not understand where to go. The cage that I initially taught my rabbit in
was quite small, the litter box took up 1/2 of the cage. In the other 1/2 I put his toys and food. Now he has a large cage and he
never has an accident. I can even give him run of the house and he will return to his box (I put it on the floor) to go potty. If
you let your rabbit run around your house make sure that you watch him because they will chew wood, furniture, curtains,
cords, etc. If you have any other questions about house rabbits please e-mail me.
Fostering Rabbits:
Fostering rabbits can be quite easy as long as it is done properly. If you
find that your doe is unable to care for her babies you may choose to
foster them with another rabbit. When doing so it is best to foster with
a doe that has similar aged kits. Also, you only want to try to foster if
the babies in both litters are only a few days old. Some does are more
excepting of new comers. If you find your foster mom is rejecting the
babies try taking the nest box out of her cage with all of the babies.
Then return it a few hours later. Usually, she will readily except all of
the babies. If she still will not except the babies try a different doe or
you may end up caring for them yourself.
With Polish be sure not to foster too many babies with one mother.
Even though a doe has 8 teats I do not recommend giving her 8 babies.
I usually will only let a dwarfed doe raise 4-5 babies at a time. In
emergencies I have had to foster more, however, the babies did not all
make it and were slow to develope. A nondwarfed doe may be able to
handle up to 7 or 8 kits. Just keep in mind the more you foster the less
likely all the kits will survive. There is also exceptions to every rule.
Fostering can be risky, but in the end you may end up saving your new
kits' lives.
Fostering rabbits can be quite easy as long as it is done properly. If you
find that your doe is unable to care for her babies you may choose to
foster them with another rabbit. When doing so it is best to foster with
a doe that has similar aged kits. Also, you only want to try to foster if
the babies in both litters are only a few days old. Some does are more
excepting of new comers. If you find your foster mom is rejecting the
babies try taking the nest box out of her cage with all of the babies.
Then return it a few hours later. Usually, she will readily except all of
the babies. If she still will not except the babies try a different doe or
you may end up caring for them yourself.
With Polish be sure not to foster too many babies with one mother.
Even though a doe has 8 teats I do not recommend giving her 8 babies.
I usually will only let a dwarfed doe raise 4-5 babies at a time. In
emergencies I have had to foster more, however, the babies did not all
make it and were slow to develope. A nondwarfed doe may be able to
handle up to 7 or 8 kits. Just keep in mind the more you foster the less
likely all the kits will survive. There is also exceptions to every rule.
Fostering can be risky, but in the end you may end up saving your new
kits' lives.
Caring for Orphaned Kits:
Mix and feed formula 3 times a day. Feed in only 2 minute intervals each time.
Supplement with probiotics such as probios or benebac which can be found at
farms stores for cattle or from a veterinarian. Give 1/2 gram every other day to aid
in digestion. Feed with an eye dropper or small syringe. Hold the kit in your left
hand. Secure it's head between your thumb and index finger. Tilt it's head at about
a 45 degree angle. With your right hand take the syringe/eye dropper and push the
end into the kit's mouth again at a diagonal angle at about 45 degrees. Then push
the formula into it's mouth with the plunger. Do this very slowly! You don't want to
get it into the kit's lungs. Kits will usually start feeding on pellets and hay at about 2
weeks of age. However, you may need to still supplement them with the formula at
least 1-2 times a day until they are eating fully on their own. They should be able to
be weaned completely off of the formula by 4 weeks of age. Be sure to keep the
kits warm and comfortable. It takes them a few feedings to adjust to nursing from
the syringe/eye dropper. Just go slowly, be patient, and don't feed them for more
than 2 minutes or you will over feed them. The syringe we used holds 1 cc. of
formula. In the beginning they only ate 1-2 cc per feeding. By 4 weeks old they may
be up to 4-5 cc per feeding and beginning to show interest in hay and pellets. They
also should at least double their weight from 2 to 4 weeks of age.
Formula from my Vet:
1 cup of PET (brand) evaporated milk
10 drops of vitamin supplement (Vi-Sorbin can be bought from a vet)
2 egg yolks
1 Tbsp. Karo syrup
1 Tbsp. Corn oil
1 pinch of salt
This can be frozen into cubes (ice cube tray) and then thaw out the amount you
need each day. The formula will last only a few days in the refrigerator. Good
Luck!!!
Mix and feed formula 3 times a day. Feed in only 2 minute intervals each time.
Supplement with probiotics such as probios or benebac which can be found at
farms stores for cattle or from a veterinarian. Give 1/2 gram every other day to aid
in digestion. Feed with an eye dropper or small syringe. Hold the kit in your left
hand. Secure it's head between your thumb and index finger. Tilt it's head at about
a 45 degree angle. With your right hand take the syringe/eye dropper and push the
end into the kit's mouth again at a diagonal angle at about 45 degrees. Then push
the formula into it's mouth with the plunger. Do this very slowly! You don't want to
get it into the kit's lungs. Kits will usually start feeding on pellets and hay at about 2
weeks of age. However, you may need to still supplement them with the formula at
least 1-2 times a day until they are eating fully on their own. They should be able to
be weaned completely off of the formula by 4 weeks of age. Be sure to keep the
kits warm and comfortable. It takes them a few feedings to adjust to nursing from
the syringe/eye dropper. Just go slowly, be patient, and don't feed them for more
than 2 minutes or you will over feed them. The syringe we used holds 1 cc. of
formula. In the beginning they only ate 1-2 cc per feeding. By 4 weeks old they may
be up to 4-5 cc per feeding and beginning to show interest in hay and pellets. They
also should at least double their weight from 2 to 4 weeks of age.
Formula from my Vet:
1 cup of PET (brand) evaporated milk
10 drops of vitamin supplement (Vi-Sorbin can be bought from a vet)
2 egg yolks
1 Tbsp. Karo syrup
1 Tbsp. Corn oil
1 pinch of salt
This can be frozen into cubes (ice cube tray) and then thaw out the amount you
need each day. The formula will last only a few days in the refrigerator. Good
Luck!!!
Worming rabbits
Don't forget to routinely worm your rabbits. You should get wormer from
your vet or wormer that is designed for rabbits. I know that it is common
practice for breeders to use paste wormer made for horses on their
rabbits. Keep in mind these doses are WAY to concentrated for a
rabbits. You can get safe doses of the same wormers from your
veterinarian. We also routinely gave our rabbits corid to prevent
coccidiosis. For proper dosage of any medication or wormer contact
your local veterinarian.
Don't forget to routinely worm your rabbits. You should get wormer from
your vet or wormer that is designed for rabbits. I know that it is common
practice for breeders to use paste wormer made for horses on their
rabbits. Keep in mind these doses are WAY to concentrated for a
rabbits. You can get safe doses of the same wormers from your
veterinarian. We also routinely gave our rabbits corid to prevent
coccidiosis. For proper dosage of any medication or wormer contact
your local veterinarian.
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