| Jersey Wooly Care |
Excercise:
It is important that rabbits receive plenty of exercise.
Rabbits that are not allowed to get up and move
around are not only unhappy, but can be unhealthy
as well. Rabbits that get enough exercise generally
are more successful at breeding. If a rabbit is too
overweight or not in shape breeding can be a chore.
Rabbits also need exercise to keep a healthy
digestive system. Rabbits in the wild are free to
roam and eat at will. Their digestive systems are
designed for this as well. A rabbit that is locked in
too small of a cage or that cannot exercise may
develop wool block (an impaction in the intestine.) At
serapic Farms we also give our rabbits toys to play
with. These are plastic cat toys that the rabbit can
not chew. The rabbits love picking them up and
throwing them around their cage. This also helps to
exercise the rabbit. Rabbits enjoy homemade toys
as well.
We on occasion let our rabbits outside in a pen or
run around our enclosed barn for exercise.
It is important that rabbits receive plenty of exercise.
Rabbits that are not allowed to get up and move
around are not only unhappy, but can be unhealthy
as well. Rabbits that get enough exercise generally
are more successful at breeding. If a rabbit is too
overweight or not in shape breeding can be a chore.
Rabbits also need exercise to keep a healthy
digestive system. Rabbits in the wild are free to
roam and eat at will. Their digestive systems are
designed for this as well. A rabbit that is locked in
too small of a cage or that cannot exercise may
develop wool block (an impaction in the intestine.) At
serapic Farms we also give our rabbits toys to play
with. These are plastic cat toys that the rabbit can
not chew. The rabbits love picking them up and
throwing them around their cage. This also helps to
exercise the rabbit. Rabbits enjoy homemade toys
as well.
We on occasion let our rabbits outside in a pen or
run around our enclosed barn for exercise.
Feeding:
We feed Heinhold Wool Formula. At Serapic Farms we found that if we "free" feed
our rabbits they stay healthier and are in better condition for showing. Free feeding
means that the rabbit always has food in front of them. We also feed a grass hay
mixture everyday. We have had many other breeders and judges comment on how
good of flesh condition our rabbit are in.
We recently have been conducting a study in feeding fresh greens. We found that
rabbits that were fed fresh greens were more likely to have wool block than rabbits
who were not fed fresh greens. During an entire year of feeding fresh greens (2-3
times per week) we had about 8 cases of severe wool block (many needing
veterinary care). We were told we were feeding our rabbits correctly by several
breeders and vets. At one point we hadn't fed any fresh greens for about 2 months
we decided to feed them and with in 1 day we had 2 rabbits get severe wool block.
Now maybe it was because we hadn't fed fresh greens in such a long period, but
even when we were feeding them on a regular basis we still had a lot of cases of
minor and major wool block. We took all of our rabbits off fresh greens to see what
would happen and we have not had a case of wool block for over a year! We still
own many of the same rabbits and they are healthy, happier, and hold weight better!
. We also give our rabbits fresh water daily and grass hay. Occasionally we give
oatmeal, show stopper, or calf manna for weight gain.
We feed Heinhold Wool Formula. At Serapic Farms we found that if we "free" feed
our rabbits they stay healthier and are in better condition for showing. Free feeding
means that the rabbit always has food in front of them. We also feed a grass hay
mixture everyday. We have had many other breeders and judges comment on how
good of flesh condition our rabbit are in.
We recently have been conducting a study in feeding fresh greens. We found that
rabbits that were fed fresh greens were more likely to have wool block than rabbits
who were not fed fresh greens. During an entire year of feeding fresh greens (2-3
times per week) we had about 8 cases of severe wool block (many needing
veterinary care). We were told we were feeding our rabbits correctly by several
breeders and vets. At one point we hadn't fed any fresh greens for about 2 months
we decided to feed them and with in 1 day we had 2 rabbits get severe wool block.
Now maybe it was because we hadn't fed fresh greens in such a long period, but
even when we were feeding them on a regular basis we still had a lot of cases of
minor and major wool block. We took all of our rabbits off fresh greens to see what
would happen and we have not had a case of wool block for over a year! We still
own many of the same rabbits and they are healthy, happier, and hold weight better!
. We also give our rabbits fresh water daily and grass hay. Occasionally we give
oatmeal, show stopper, or calf manna for weight gain.
Questions about rabbit care?
Grooming:
At Serapic Farms our rabbits that are on our show team
are groomed about once a week. We start by blowing
the rabbits with a blower. We also use a slicker brush
and a dematting comb to remove any matts, knotts, hay,
or other debris. We also groom our weaned babies
about once a week. Brood does are groomed as
needed. Molting rabbits are groomed several times a
week.
At Serapic Farms our rabbits that are on our show team
are groomed about once a week. We start by blowing
the rabbits with a blower. We also use a slicker brush
and a dematting comb to remove any matts, knotts, hay,
or other debris. We also groom our weaned babies
about once a week. Brood does are groomed as
needed. Molting rabbits are groomed several times a
week.
Please Contact me at:
Showing Rabbits:
Showing rabbits can be a lot of fun! It is very stressful on
the rabbits though. Remember to arrive to the show early.
Bring all of your grooming supplies and make sure to
bring food and water for your bunnies.
Jersey Woolies are shown in color groups. In each color
group they are broken down into ages and sexes. The 5
color groups are AOV, agouti, self, shaded, and tan. They
begin in alphabetical order. First to show would be AOV
senior bucks ( a senior is a rabbit that is either over 3lbs.,
or 6 months of age), then AOV senior does, next AOV
junior bucks, and last AOV junior does. After they pick the
top 4 AOV's they judge those 4 rabbits against each
other. They then pick the Best of Group or BOG and then
the Best opposite of Group or BOSG. So if a doe wins
BOG they will then pick the best buck for BOSG or vise
versa. Then they continue in ABC order through each
color group until they have the BOG and BOSG for each
color group. After that they narrow those 10 rabbits down
to Best of Breed or BOB and Best opposite Sex of Breed
or BOSB. The rabbit that wins BOB will then compete in
Best 4 class. If they win this they then go on to compete
for Best in Show or BIS. Happy showing and good luck to
all!
Showing rabbits can be a lot of fun! It is very stressful on
the rabbits though. Remember to arrive to the show early.
Bring all of your grooming supplies and make sure to
bring food and water for your bunnies.
Jersey Woolies are shown in color groups. In each color
group they are broken down into ages and sexes. The 5
color groups are AOV, agouti, self, shaded, and tan. They
begin in alphabetical order. First to show would be AOV
senior bucks ( a senior is a rabbit that is either over 3lbs.,
or 6 months of age), then AOV senior does, next AOV
junior bucks, and last AOV junior does. After they pick the
top 4 AOV's they judge those 4 rabbits against each
other. They then pick the Best of Group or BOG and then
the Best opposite of Group or BOSG. So if a doe wins
BOG they will then pick the best buck for BOSG or vise
versa. Then they continue in ABC order through each
color group until they have the BOG and BOSG for each
color group. After that they narrow those 10 rabbits down
to Best of Breed or BOB and Best opposite Sex of Breed
or BOSB. The rabbit that wins BOB will then compete in
Best 4 class. If they win this they then go on to compete
for Best in Show or BIS. Happy showing and good luck to
all!
Broken wooly babies in a nest of hair and straw. The mother will pull hair and build a
nest for the babies before they are born. (Serapic's Geronimo, born October 20, 2004)
nest for the babies before they are born. (Serapic's Geronimo, born October 20, 2004)
Breeding:
We breed our rabbits year round at Serapic Farms. We generally breed at night
since this is when rabbits in nature breed and are most active. We also hand
breed our rabbits to make sure that breeding is successful and so that rabbits do
not get injured. We hand breed by putting the doe on our grooming table first. Then
we brush her hair on her hindquarters forward so that it doesn't get in the way. On
occasion we may even clip the hair around the vaginal opening and hindquarters.
Then we put the buck on the table and let him mount her on his own. Sometimes
with aggressive females we may hold them in place and set the buck into the a
mounting position. The bucks then will breed the doe and when they have
completed (usually only takes a few seconds) they will fall off of the doe and make
a grunting noise. They then will get up and usually thump their hind feet at the doe.
We then put them back into their seperate cages to relax. Once mating is
successful we rebreed the rabbits apporxiamatly 1 hour after the first mating.
Research has shown that this is the best way to insure that the does will take. On
occasion we will try to rebreed the next morning to make sure the does have
taken. Generally, does will not rebreed. We have had some that are willing to
rebreed. If this is the case, we breed them and then breed them again an hour
later. We have found that our success rate is higher by using this strategy. We
give the does their nest box on day 29 with hay or straw. We calculate the due date
to day 31 since most of my Jersey Woolies have them on day 31 or even day 32.
We suggest inducing does who go past 32 days. Babies are kept under heating
lamps when it is cold out. Our does that have babies are given hay twice a day and
are given larger bowls so that we an add more food and water. The babies are
handled everyday in order for them to be used to people. Babies are weaned at six
weeks of age. We keep the babies in the litter together until they are about 7-8
weeks old. Our does (if we want to rebreed them) are rebreed when the kits are
between 4 to 6 weeks of age. Does that loose their litters during birth can be
rebred 2 days after delivery of the kits and the placenta. We do give are does a
break from having litters after about every 2 litters.
We breed our rabbits year round at Serapic Farms. We generally breed at night
since this is when rabbits in nature breed and are most active. We also hand
breed our rabbits to make sure that breeding is successful and so that rabbits do
not get injured. We hand breed by putting the doe on our grooming table first. Then
we brush her hair on her hindquarters forward so that it doesn't get in the way. On
occasion we may even clip the hair around the vaginal opening and hindquarters.
Then we put the buck on the table and let him mount her on his own. Sometimes
with aggressive females we may hold them in place and set the buck into the a
mounting position. The bucks then will breed the doe and when they have
completed (usually only takes a few seconds) they will fall off of the doe and make
a grunting noise. They then will get up and usually thump their hind feet at the doe.
We then put them back into their seperate cages to relax. Once mating is
successful we rebreed the rabbits apporxiamatly 1 hour after the first mating.
Research has shown that this is the best way to insure that the does will take. On
occasion we will try to rebreed the next morning to make sure the does have
taken. Generally, does will not rebreed. We have had some that are willing to
rebreed. If this is the case, we breed them and then breed them again an hour
later. We have found that our success rate is higher by using this strategy. We
give the does their nest box on day 29 with hay or straw. We calculate the due date
to day 31 since most of my Jersey Woolies have them on day 31 or even day 32.
We suggest inducing does who go past 32 days. Babies are kept under heating
lamps when it is cold out. Our does that have babies are given hay twice a day and
are given larger bowls so that we an add more food and water. The babies are
handled everyday in order for them to be used to people. Babies are weaned at six
weeks of age. We keep the babies in the litter together until they are about 7-8
weeks old. Our does (if we want to rebreed them) are rebreed when the kits are
between 4 to 6 weeks of age. Does that loose their litters during birth can be
rebred 2 days after delivery of the kits and the placenta. We do give are does a
break from having litters after about every 2 litters.
House Rabbits and Litter Box Training:
House rabbits can be a lot of fun, but they are not for everyone. If you are interested in purchasing a rabbit as a pet then you
need a lot of information first! They are not a pet that you can lock up in a cage and leave alone. They are very much like a
dog or cat in that they require a lot of human companionship. I have a house rabbit as well as many show rabbits. All of
them are handled and talked to everyday. They all love attention! My house rabbit has been socialized and goes to school
with me every week and poses as my classroom pet. He is litter box trained and has been neutered. I would recommend to
anyone who wishes to have a rabbit as a pet to get them spayed or neutered. They are less aggressive and will not spray to
mark their territory. If they are not neutered they also may circle their owners repeatedly wishing to breed. Some rabbits will
even mount or hump their owners if they are not "fixed." Their requirements are of the same as listed above for my show
rabbits. The only difference is litter box training. This usually can not be done until the rabbit is around 3 months old, but
some can be done earlier. To litter box train my rabbit I waited until he was a little older. Then he started doing his business
on one side of his cage. So that is where I put his litter box. I then placed some of his feces in the box so he would get the
idea of what the box was for. I made sure to clean up any accidents right away so that he wouldn't get confused. He caught
on very quickly. Make sure that you use a small cage to teach your rabbit. By nature they are very clean animals and will go
in one area. If you give them to much room they may not understand where to go. The cage that I initially taught my rabbit in
was quite small, the litter box took up 1/2 of the cage. In the other 1/2 I put his toys and food. Now he has a large cage and he
never has an accident. I can even give him run of the house and he will return to his box (I put it on the floor) to go potty. If
you let your rabbit run around your house make sure that you watch him because they will chew wood, furniture, curtains,
cords, etc. If you have any other questions about house rabbits please e-mail me.
House rabbits can be a lot of fun, but they are not for everyone. If you are interested in purchasing a rabbit as a pet then you
need a lot of information first! They are not a pet that you can lock up in a cage and leave alone. They are very much like a
dog or cat in that they require a lot of human companionship. I have a house rabbit as well as many show rabbits. All of
them are handled and talked to everyday. They all love attention! My house rabbit has been socialized and goes to school
with me every week and poses as my classroom pet. He is litter box trained and has been neutered. I would recommend to
anyone who wishes to have a rabbit as a pet to get them spayed or neutered. They are less aggressive and will not spray to
mark their territory. If they are not neutered they also may circle their owners repeatedly wishing to breed. Some rabbits will
even mount or hump their owners if they are not "fixed." Their requirements are of the same as listed above for my show
rabbits. The only difference is litter box training. This usually can not be done until the rabbit is around 3 months old, but
some can be done earlier. To litter box train my rabbit I waited until he was a little older. Then he started doing his business
on one side of his cage. So that is where I put his litter box. I then placed some of his feces in the box so he would get the
idea of what the box was for. I made sure to clean up any accidents right away so that he wouldn't get confused. He caught
on very quickly. Make sure that you use a small cage to teach your rabbit. By nature they are very clean animals and will go
in one area. If you give them to much room they may not understand where to go. The cage that I initially taught my rabbit in
was quite small, the litter box took up 1/2 of the cage. In the other 1/2 I put his toys and food. Now he has a large cage and he
never has an accident. I can even give him run of the house and he will return to his box (I put it on the floor) to go potty. If
you let your rabbit run around your house make sure that you watch him because they will chew wood, furniture, curtains,
cords, etc. If you have any other questions about house rabbits please e-mail me.
Rose Arbor's Storm Front is a
seal mini rex rabbit. He is the
reason I got into breeding
rabbits. Stormy is now
neutered and lives in my house.
He is fully litterbox trained and
spends his week days in my
classroom as a class pet.
seal mini rex rabbit. He is the
reason I got into breeding
rabbits. Stormy is now
neutered and lives in my house.
He is fully litterbox trained and
spends his week days in my
classroom as a class pet.
Fostering Rabbits:
Fostering rabbits can be quite easy as long as it is done properly. If you find that your doe is
unable to care for her babies you may choose to foster them with another rabbit. When doing
so it is best to foster with a doe that has similar aged kits. Also, you only want to try to foster
if the babies in both litters are only a few days old. Some does are more excepting of new
comers. If you find your foster mom is rejecting the babies try taking the nest box out of her
cage with all of the babies. Then return it a few hours later. Usually, she will readily except
all of the babies. If she still will not except the babies try a different doe or you may end up
caring for them yourself.
With Jersey Woolies be sure not to foster too many babies with one mother. Even though a
doe has 8 teats I do not recommend giving her 8 babies. I usually will only let a dwarfed doe
raise 4-5 babies at a time. In emergencies I have had to foster more, however, the babies did
not all make it and were slow to develope. A nondwarfed doe may be able to handle up to 7 or
8 kits. Just keep in mind the more you foster the less likely all the kits will survive. There is
also exceptions to every rule. Fostering can be risky, but in the end you may end up saving
your new kits' lives.
Fostering rabbits can be quite easy as long as it is done properly. If you find that your doe is
unable to care for her babies you may choose to foster them with another rabbit. When doing
so it is best to foster with a doe that has similar aged kits. Also, you only want to try to foster
if the babies in both litters are only a few days old. Some does are more excepting of new
comers. If you find your foster mom is rejecting the babies try taking the nest box out of her
cage with all of the babies. Then return it a few hours later. Usually, she will readily except
all of the babies. If she still will not except the babies try a different doe or you may end up
caring for them yourself.
With Jersey Woolies be sure not to foster too many babies with one mother. Even though a
doe has 8 teats I do not recommend giving her 8 babies. I usually will only let a dwarfed doe
raise 4-5 babies at a time. In emergencies I have had to foster more, however, the babies did
not all make it and were slow to develope. A nondwarfed doe may be able to handle up to 7 or
8 kits. Just keep in mind the more you foster the less likely all the kits will survive. There is
also exceptions to every rule. Fostering can be risky, but in the end you may end up saving
your new kits' lives.
This doe had accidentally stomped her entire litter, but 1 baby.
So I successfully fostered her 1 remaining baby with a different
mom. Two days later a friend called in a panic, needing a foster
rabbit for a new born kit. My other foster mom already was up to
4 babies. I just didn't feel comfortable giving her another baby. So
we decided to see if the doe who stomped her litter could raise
the baby even though she hadn't nursed in over 3 days! Well, you
can see as good as I can that she did it! She readily excepted
this new little mini rex baby and luckily didn't squash her.
So I successfully fostered her 1 remaining baby with a different
mom. Two days later a friend called in a panic, needing a foster
rabbit for a new born kit. My other foster mom already was up to
4 babies. I just didn't feel comfortable giving her another baby. So
we decided to see if the doe who stomped her litter could raise
the baby even though she hadn't nursed in over 3 days! Well, you
can see as good as I can that she did it! She readily excepted
this new little mini rex baby and luckily didn't squash her.
Caring for Orphaned Kits:
Mix and feed formula 3 times a day. Feed in only 2 minute intervals each time. Supplement with
probiotics such as probios or benebac which can be found at farms stores for cattle or from a
veterinarian. Give 1/2 gram every other day to aid in digestion. Feed with an eye dropper or small
syringe. Hold the kit in your left hand. Secure it's head between your thumb and index finger. Tilt
it's head at about a 45 degree angle. With your right hand take the syringe/eye dropper and push
the end into the kit's mouth again at a diagonal angle at about 45 degrees. Then push the formula
into it's mouth with the plunger. Do this very slowly! You don't want to get it into the kit's lungs.
Kits will usually start feeding on pellets and hay at about 2 weeks of age. However, you may need
to still supplement them with the formula at least 1-2 times a day until they are eating fully on their
own. They should be able to be weaned completely off of the formula by 4 weeks of age. Be sure
to keep the kits warm and comfortable. It takes them a few feedings to adjust to nursing from the
syringe/eye dropper. Just go slowly, be patient, and don't feed them for more than 2 minutes or
you will over feed them.
Formula from my Vet:
1 cup of PET (brand) evaporated milk
10 drops of vitamin supplement (Vi-Sorbin can be bought from a vet)
2 egg yolks
1 Tbsp. Karo syrup
1 Tbsp. Corn oil
1 pinch of salt
This can be frozen into cubes (ice cube tray) and then thaw out the amount you need each day.
The formula will last only a few days in the refrigerator. Good Luck!!!
Mix and feed formula 3 times a day. Feed in only 2 minute intervals each time. Supplement with
probiotics such as probios or benebac which can be found at farms stores for cattle or from a
veterinarian. Give 1/2 gram every other day to aid in digestion. Feed with an eye dropper or small
syringe. Hold the kit in your left hand. Secure it's head between your thumb and index finger. Tilt
it's head at about a 45 degree angle. With your right hand take the syringe/eye dropper and push
the end into the kit's mouth again at a diagonal angle at about 45 degrees. Then push the formula
into it's mouth with the plunger. Do this very slowly! You don't want to get it into the kit's lungs.
Kits will usually start feeding on pellets and hay at about 2 weeks of age. However, you may need
to still supplement them with the formula at least 1-2 times a day until they are eating fully on their
own. They should be able to be weaned completely off of the formula by 4 weeks of age. Be sure
to keep the kits warm and comfortable. It takes them a few feedings to adjust to nursing from the
syringe/eye dropper. Just go slowly, be patient, and don't feed them for more than 2 minutes or
you will over feed them.
Formula from my Vet:
1 cup of PET (brand) evaporated milk
10 drops of vitamin supplement (Vi-Sorbin can be bought from a vet)
2 egg yolks
1 Tbsp. Karo syrup
1 Tbsp. Corn oil
1 pinch of salt
This can be frozen into cubes (ice cube tray) and then thaw out the amount you need each day.
The formula will last only a few days in the refrigerator. Good Luck!!!
This is an older kit that is being fed. This
particular kit was very small and was not
getting any time to nurse. It's larger litter
mates were pushing it out. He would have
starved to death. We began nursing him at
two weeks old. In this pic he is 4 weeks old
and as you can see he has adapted quite
well to nursing from the syringe. The
syringe holds 1 cc. of formula. In the
beginning he only ate 1-2 cc per feeding. By
4 weeks old he was up to 4-5 cc per
feeding and beginning to show interest in
hay and pellets. He also doubled his weight
from 2 to 4 weeks of age.
particular kit was very small and was not
getting any time to nurse. It's larger litter
mates were pushing it out. He would have
starved to death. We began nursing him at
two weeks old. In this pic he is 4 weeks old
and as you can see he has adapted quite
well to nursing from the syringe. The
syringe holds 1 cc. of formula. In the
beginning he only ate 1-2 cc per feeding. By
4 weeks old he was up to 4-5 cc per
feeding and beginning to show interest in
hay and pellets. He also doubled his weight
from 2 to 4 weeks of age.
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Jen's LaceyLoo
White Oak's Cappuccino:
Building her nest
Building her nest
In the past I raised champion show rabbits. I had
multiple BOB and BOSB champions as well as a BIS
winner. I also had many state convention wins as well as
national rankings. Due to popular demand this page will
stay as a breeder reference page to help those out who
are still producing and showing rabbits as well as
individuals who have rabbits as pets. If I can help out in
any way with rabbit questions please don't hesitate to
contact me. Thank you.
multiple BOB and BOSB champions as well as a BIS
winner. I also had many state convention wins as well as
national rankings. Due to popular demand this page will
stay as a breeder reference page to help those out who
are still producing and showing rabbits as well as
individuals who have rabbits as pets. If I can help out in
any way with rabbit questions please don't hesitate to
contact me. Thank you.
Worming rabbits
Don't forget to routinely worm your rabbits. You should get wormer from your vet or
wormer that is designed for rabbits. I know that it is common practice for breeders to use
paste wormer made for horses on their rabbits. Keep in mind these doses are WAY to
concentrated for a rabbits. You can get safe doses of the same wormers from your
veterinarian. We also routinely gave our rabbits corid to prevent coccidiosis. For proper
dosage of any medication or wormer contact your local veterinarian.
Don't forget to routinely worm your rabbits. You should get wormer from your vet or
wormer that is designed for rabbits. I know that it is common practice for breeders to use
paste wormer made for horses on their rabbits. Keep in mind these doses are WAY to
concentrated for a rabbits. You can get safe doses of the same wormers from your
veterinarian. We also routinely gave our rabbits corid to prevent coccidiosis. For proper
dosage of any medication or wormer contact your local veterinarian.